Not so "Silent Night"

***THIS IS FOR YOU R.B.***

At the start of December, I had my first real “pangs” of missing home. Christmas was coming...my favorite time of year and the kids were outside playing in the pool!  Something didn’t feel right. I was missing SNOW!  For years, Marc said SNOW was a four letter word, so we all had to quietly wish for it. But even Marc had to admit that it didn’t feel the same without it.

So, I spent an afternoon cutting out paper snowflakes. I was determined to bring a little bit of Idaho to Uruguay. I taped snowflakes onto the windows (got alot of looks from the people passing by). I hung snowflakes from the ceiling and turned the air conditioning on full blast (we are one of the few homes to have air conditioning- in one room only though, but I am not complaining). And every now and then, if you waited long enough, a piece of tape would give way and a snowflake would fall. 

About two weeks before Christmas, stores began to advertise and signs of Christmas began to appear.  One indicator (though we didn't understand at the time) was the appearance of sheep in our neighbor's yard.  Another indicator was the vast array of fireworks being sold by vendors. We purchased a 3 ft. tall plastic Christmas tree for $5 and some plastic ornaments. For the first time ever- I let the kids decorate it by themselves!  I downloaded some familiar Christmas tunes- a little Bing Crosby, Michael Buble, and the guy who sings “Santa Got Run Over by a Reindeer” and voila- it was beginning to look a lot like Christmas!

On Christmas Eve, I prepared my traditional meatballs and spaghetti, but from our patio you could smell the eucalyptus wood burning in the Uruguayan barbeques. Here, the people traditionally grill a whole lamb (our neighbors sheep were gone). It takes them about four to six hours to complete it and it smelled DIVINE! 

After Christmas Eve dinner, everyone waited for the arrival of “Papa Noel."  In Uruguay, Santa Claus appears at the stroke of midnight.  In anticipation, the Uruguayans set off fireworks, starting sometime around 11:30.  *Keep in mind, there are no regulations here and anyone is allowed to launch fireworks from just about anywhere.*  The intensity of lights and sounds increased and by 11:55 (on the top of our roof) we had witnessed the best firework display we had ever seen. It was really magical. 

During all the commotion, "Papa Noel" had time to place the presents under the tree and when the kids came inside they opened their presents. I was afraid that Christmas this year would feel "different" and it did, but it was still beautiful.  Hoping you all had a magical Christmas and best of luck in 2012!

P.S. Marc did participate and set off a few fireworks, but he only managed to send them into our neighbor’s yard!

Carpool anyone...bring your helmet!

Today's topic- transportation! In Uruguay, it is not uncommon to look down the street and see bicyclists, motorcyclists, and motorists all weaving in/out/around one another on the road. Though it is a common sight in many other countries, it is new to me and every day I am in complete awe on how they do it. It is a bit of magical chaos every morning while I walk Trinity to school. Here, there are no stop lights or stop signs really (I think just a few on the main strip), no lines on the street, no bicycle pathways....just one big free for all.  You are free to pass, weave through, or stop to talk to someone, whenever it suits you. There really is only one rule: If you are bigger, you have the right of way!

At first, I was blown away by the lack of rules and orderly protocol. Marc, on the other hand, felt it was liberating and embraced the lack of regulations.  I think it helps that he is "bigger and can go first!"  Surprisingly in the two months I have been here, I have only witnessed two accidents and in both situations every one was fine. Usually, it's a young man driving his motorcycle too fast, not wanting to yield to anyone...plowing into a car or a truck tends to teach these boys a lesson about size.

Now, I am accustom to the sight of mothers taking kids to/from school on their motorcycles. It's normal to see a mother and three kids all on one bike- the smallest in front, the older two behind. I often wonder how I would do it? Perhaps, I would have to make two trips!

Marc said when he was here four years ago, hardly anyone wore a helmet. Now most of the parents and their kids are wearing helmets, but certainly not all. Though, it is an improvement in safety, the helmets are sized for adults, not children, and offer limited protection for the kids.  Some of the kids look like they barely have the neck muscles to hold their helmeted heads up!  For newborns and toddlers, they still are without helmets and it is still disturbing to watch parents sandwich an infant between them while they rumble down the road. I even saw a young mother the other day, with a one month old strapped to her chest, riding her motorcycle down the road while talking on her cell phone. I prayed for them.

To smoke or not to smoke...that is the question!

Lately, Marc has been debating if he should take up smoking. There are a number of things reminiscent of 1970's America- and one of them is smoking. In Uruguay there are alot of people with the nicotine habit and like the United States in the 70's it still looks cool. When Marc found this cigarette box on the street, his decision was almost made.

The picture shows the two things South American men love the most....women (in thongs) and futball (soccer). In the 70's, Americans had the Marlboro Man to aspire to, representing toughness and grit. I thought he was cool. Down here, though, if you smoke, it doesn't matter what you look like....you'll get the hot girl and she'll love futball too! Who's sales campaign is stronger....dirty tough guy....hot girl with a ball?
But then......

Marc found this box!

I think this one says it all. So, if you smoke and get the hot girl who likes futball, well....you won't be able to do anything about it. Marc has taken up running as his new habit instead!!!! Thank you Coronado cigarettes!
Kristin

Misinterpretation, miscommunication, and other things I am good at!

I am going to start this blog out with a little story about last weekend. Last Friday, one of our neighbors, Florencia, brought over her 71 year old mother to meet us.  Her mother (Olga) was visiting from Montevideo and had wanted to meet the American family.  Olga had spent twenty some years traveling the globe working in various embassies (I believe Florencia was born in Israel).  She was an impressive woman and spoke perfect English. She spoke eight different languages in all: Spanish, English, French, Portuguese, Hebrew, German, Italian, and Greek, but claimed she has lost the ability to speak three of them in the last couple years, as she has had no one to talk "Greek" to.  Olga was the very definition of a "well bred woman".

Now, a little about this "well bred" woman.  Florencia and her mother invited me to attend a floral show being held down at the plaza (a little park in the center of town).  I was told- "they have alot of pretty flowers on display and it is very nice to look at."  In my head, I was thinking "Garden Expo" being held in the plaza! Great, I love flowers!  I was excited because I had been meaning to pick up some flowers for the back garden, but didn't know where to go... so this would be perfect. So, on Saturday evening I strolled over to Florencia's house to join them.  When I met Florencia at the door, I noticed I was a little underdressed.  Florencia and her mother were wearing suits and I, well....I was dressed for a Garden Expo.  Florencia doesn't speak enough English, but gestured we get in her car and drive down to the plaza.  Now the bells were definitely going off in my head, but as we were on our way already, I decided just to get in the car.  When we arrived at the plaza, I noticed there wasn't anything going on in the actual park...it was empty. I did notice a bunch of very well dressed people heading into a building on the side, though. I quietly said to Florencia's mother, "I think I am a little underdressed." She quietly replied, "yes." 

It turns out it was a very formal affair.  Local artists and florists created various artistic displays using plants and florals. There were dresses made out of leaves and rose buds. There were tables with exquisite vases and floral arrangements. It was all quite lovely. There was one display, though, that received alot of attention. In fact, everyone even stepped back a foot or two to take a look....yes, you got it, the American idiot dressed in shorts, a tank top, and sweater. In my defense, Mom, I was clean!

Throughout the evening, I tried to smile nicely, like the teenage girl with a pimple on her nose, hoping no one would really notice. It didn't work. Also, the fundraiser for the event was a beautiful arrangement of tortas (cakes), in which you could purchase a slice for about $15.  As Florencia and Olga ordered a couple slices, I didn't help my case any by declining to buy a slice. For those who don't know, I am allergic to wheat. I tried to explain to them that I had allergies, but I don't think they believed me. Anyway, to make a long story shorter...I think I ate "humble" pie that night instead. 

If I had an ego prior to this trip, I promise you, it is disappearing. Over the last six months, I have experienced alot of changes in my life...from boxing up my house, living in a pop-up trailer, to moving to Uruguay.  I cannot explain or describe all the changes I am experiencing within myself, except to say that every day (since I have left Idaho) I feel another layer of what I have created to define myself  being stripped away. When you live where no one knows who you are, what you have done, or where you have been and you are unable to communicate very well...you are only judged on the kind of a person you are at any given moment.  I didn't win anyone over at the floral show, but I hope over the next year or so, that I will grow as a person....one who is more understanding, more sympathetic, more empathetic, and more generous. By the end of this chapter of my life, I want to learn to live without the constant validation from others that I formerly sought and to simply accept myself as "ordinary."

One last thing...after crying to Marc about how embarrassed I was at the floral show, he told me a little story about himself. Over the last month or so, when Marc was asked why he was here in Uruguay, he replied he wanted to have look around the country. He said that the people often looked at him strangely and then said nothing more.  In talking to his friend, Raul, Marc said the very same thing "I want to have a look around the country."  Raul told Marc that "to look" and "to pee" sounded very similar and that Marc was in fact telling everyone "he wanted to pee on their country."  No wonder we haven't made many friends!
Till next time, love and kisses,
Kristin

The Help- my fear of becoming "Two-slice" Kristin

If any of you have watched the movie "The Help" (or read the book), you know exactly what this blog is going to be about! Last week I hired a housekeeper to work three days a week (M,W,F from 8 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.) to help clean my house and restore some sanity to the Brackett household. The last three weeks have been wonderful, but CRAZY. It seems that mental work is more laboring than physical work and I have had a nonstop workout.

Initially,  I kept resisting Marc's suggestion to hire a housekeeper. I know some of you want to slap me for protesting, but given my personality, I was terrified about having to give someone instructions in Spanish. Though my Spanish has been improving, I find that I experience a complete mental shutdown when only Spanish is required. I can understand other people talking, but when the pressure is on for me to perform, well..... mind blank, deer in the headlights look, mouth hanging open....you get the picture. 

Trying to learn another language has been harder for me than I thought. It is the thinking in two languages that is dragging me down. Thinking in English then translating into Spanish. I was told that eventually I would only think in Spanish, but I haven't gotten there yet. Everytime I have gone out shopping hoping to improve my Spanish with the locals, they call an English speaking friend to come and help me. It's an indicator of just how small this town is. I think they see the Americana coming and make the call before I even walk through the door.  This has happened to me numerous times and there are moments I just wish I was anonymous, normal, like everybody else. 

Okay, back to the housekeeper.  Having Nina has been wonderful. She is an older woman and seems to be very nice. Morgan showed me Google Translator, so now communicating is a breeze. I believe that language barriers are now a thing of the past with all the advancements in technology. I love you Google!  I admit several times Nina has spoken to me and I didn't have a clue what she was saying, but I smile and nod and then she goes on about her business. It's all working out quite well.  The other morning, though, I did understand her (mostly by her body language and pointing).  Nina was trying to ask me if she could hang her coat and bag in the bathroom or if I would prefer it if she placed in outback-outside. Now, I had just finished reading "The Help" the weekend before and all I could think about was "two slice Hilly", so naturally I told her the bathroom would be just fine! I find it ironic that I just finished the book and hired a housekeeper.

I don't know how I ever lived without someone helping me. Nina seems to make everything shine and after only a few days I have quickly adjusted to this new way of life.  Poor Marc. He's ruined me. I don't think I could ever go back to doing it all myself now. Fortunately, having someone clean your house in Uruguay is incredibly affordable, just $10/day and even Marc can see the sense in that!  I don't know how he is going to afford it when we move on, but I will let him figure that one out! :) Anyway, I am going to go now and relax in the bed that was made for me this morning.
"Two-slice" Kristin

Mi Casa, Su Casa!!!

We have now been in Treinta y Tres, Uruguay for two weeks and all I can say is WOW!!!  There is so much I can write about, as there hasn't been a dull moment! 

The Journey-  We arrived in Montevideo October 5th after a very long journey. We left my father's house at a quarter to five in the morning (on the fourth of October).  It took about an hour and a half to get to the Dulles International Airport, but we arrived without any problems and were first in line to check in. The Taca airport ticket agents didn't show up until around 8:30, but we figured since we were first in line we would have no problems making our 11:15 flight. Turns out they gave us a very difficult time- suggesting we needed to have either a visa for Uruguay or a return ticket (which they would gladly sell to us for $7,000 total) or they couldn't allow us to board the plane. Marc had not had any problems traveling before without a return ticket and argued with the agent until around 10:45. To make a long story short, Marc got his way and we were escorted onto the plane (since we were just about to miss takeoff) and I found myself exhausted before we had even left the country!  The rest of our travels went well- landed in San Salvador (Rose left her Nintendo DS and ipod in the waiting area), boarded for Lima, took another connection to Montevideo- you get the picture. We arrived in Montevideo at 4 a.m. and waited for Marc's friend Raul to pick us up at 7 a.m.

To Treinta y Tres-  Raul arrived and we shoved all of our luggage in his pickup bed and proceeded to load all eight of us into his truck (size of a ford ranger with the little seats in the back- like Dr. Scholes' truck).  I asked Raul "how long until we reach Treinta y Tres?" and he replied "about 3 hours 45 minutes".  Needless to say a very long day, but I was grateful that all of our luggage had  arrived, my family was safe, and we got a ride to our rental house.

Treinta y Tres- is a small city with about 30,000 inhabitants. It is an agriculturally supported town with rice and beef as the main products. It feels like an ag town and Marc had described it before as "Buhl just 30 years ago". I agree.
When we arrived, Raul's wife, Maria, fed us a heavenly meal (especially after the airplane food) at their home and then we went over to our rental house.  It is a very nice house and we were grateful at the time to simply have enough beds to lay down on! As soon as Marc worked out the details with the rental manager, we closed the doors, pulled down the shades, and slept for a really LONG time!!! The next morning we awoke, ate, and then went back to bed and slept some more!

First week- The first week was spent trying to navigate the town. We don't have a car or a bike, so we literally walked the streets trying to find super markets, bakeries, fruit stands, etc.  I attempted to do some shopping and found I couldn't get by on the little spanish I knew. I realized I was in serious trouble. Our whole house had rosetta stone on and we were all scrambling to know more spanish. It is amazingly difficult and intimidating when you cannot communicate to even get basic daily needs accomplished. I felt very small, stupid, and insignificant. I definitely have a greater appreciation for immigrants who move to the United States. Luckily, Marc's spanish wasn't too shabby and he was able to get everything we needed- now I make him do everything.

Day Ten- Day ten is the day I remember very well. I admit everything was going reasonably well, much better than I had anticipated, BUT on day ten I fell apart. Some may call it "culture shock" and perhaps it was. I thought alot about Vivian, my German exchange student, who I watched the previous year struggle with adjusting to a new way of life. I found myself frustrated and crying and thinking about how everything was harder to do. I had thoughts of "I miss my car", "I just want some Starbucks", and "I just want to blend in".  I basically cried the whole day and that night I prayed that God would just send me someone to help.

Day Eleven- GOD IS GREAT!!!!  My doorbell rang and I opened my front door to this beautiful smiling young woman, named Gabby, who was speaking to me in English and saying "Do you need anything? Can I help you with anything?" Gabby had lived in Iowa for three years when she was young (around 7 or 8 yrs old) and had learned to speak English very well. She introduced herself and told me she was the girlfriend of the son whose mother owned the rental house.  I told her "YES!!! Help me!" 
We decided the most important thing to do was to get the girls into school. Happy kids, happy mom!So that afternoon, she drove me around to the local private schools. We had luck with one, which agreed to let Raye and Morgan attend. It was there local Catholic high school. Thank God I am Catholic!
The very next day, our doorbell rang throughout the day, with different people offering to help us. Gabby has a very large family and apparantly called them all and asked them to stop by and visit. All of them spoke very good English and offered to help me in numerous ways. I found having one person to open the door, had made my life significantly easier. I cannot thank her (Gabby) and her family enough for what they have done for me.

Trinity's first day of school in her public school uniform

Week Two- All the girls started school during week two, this week. The younger ones are now attending the local public schools and I have to say they welcomed the girls with open arms. The teachers and students have been warm and inviting and I amazed by the hospitality that the children are receiving. Now that the girls have started school, our door bell rings non-stop! Word has spread throughout town and I constantly have a group of young kids on my doorstep. Several groups of boys have brought the girls' homemade cakes that they made and signs saying "Welcome".  I have met so many young people that I can't remember anyone's names....alot of Juan Pablos and Juan Diegos and Marias.
In Uruguay, any time you greet someone you give them a kiss on the cheek and then another when you leave. I have never been kissed as much as I have in the last week. It is really funny too when they enter the house and give Marc a kiss as well (even the boys).  It is such a different (but incredibly warm) culture. It is not hard to fall in love with the people, especially the children.
What impressed me most about the children of Uruguay, is that they are not only friendly, but they have a great desire to learn English. I believe that is the main reason they are all at my house everyday. They teach English in the schools ( I think it may be limited at the public schools) and many of the wealthier students get English tutoring, but they are all very eager to practice. All of the children understand that learning English is important for their future and are wanting to improve their English and be able to not only speak it, but speak it well. I have not seen this degree/level of ambition to learn in America. I am not trying to put our American kids down, but it is the truth. There is a hunger here I have not seen in a long time, if ever.

Mary and Rose before first day of school. School begins at 1 p.m. and ends at 5 p.m.

Funny things- Rose had a funny incident with the bidet and her face, enough said.  I love to watch the mothers taking their kids to school on their motorcycles - so liberating! and it looks cool (I know it's not safe Dad)!  Milk is in plastic bags, yogurt in cartons, there are no chocolate chips or brown sugar to be found, and I have unfortunately discovered dulce de leche (sweet of the milk) which I simply eat by the spoonfuls. Marc is now called the "Pan (bread) Man" and everyday goes down to the panaderia (bakery) to buy two loaves of amazing bread and cookies (that they call "ojiotos" because they look like an eye- we know them as jam thumbprints). There is no comparison with there food- it is simply better and fresher than ours...sorry my American amigos, but it is true. Come visit and see for yourself!

Marc's new love....yummm.

Oh, and before I forget...the weather is beautiful! It is spring right now and steadily getting warmer. The sun is very intense here (thus the reason noone is out at noontime) and I have a steady flow of sunscreen going on my girls. But it is warm and it feels really good.

What I miss- I miss my friends and meeting for coffee. I miss the mountains, the change of seasons, and Halloween. I miss large washing machines, dishwashers, and hot water at my kitchen sink. BUT my housekeeper starts work on Monday, so I think I will survive. Anyway, I hope I caught you all up on everything. Love to you all!!!  Miss you much. Kristin

Eight Days and Counting!!!

Okay, we are eight days and counting! I have spent the last couple of weeks visiting old friends, making new ones, and saying "goodbye" (for now) to family.

Took a trip up to New Jersey to visit my best friend, Jim, and his family. I don't think I have stayed up that late, so many nights in a row, and finished off so many bottles of wine. We had such a great time. Jim's wife, Paola, was a wonderful host and I truly felt at home there with their family.

The highlight of our visit was when Paola invited an Argentinian couple over for dinner. We were given a demonstration on how to drink mate (an Argentinian and Uruguayan drink similar to tea but with a real kick). Marc said I looked like a natural drinking it and fears I will be carrying my own flask around shortly.

Mate (mah-tay) cup

While in North Jersey, I also got the chance to reconnect with another gradeschool buddy, Nikki, and feel blessed to have grown up with such great people around me. Thanks Nik!!!

Took a trip to Philadelphia, as well, to visit my mother, grandmother, and Aunt. It was bitter sweet. The visit was too short, but we made the most of it. The girls would say there favorite part was eating the Tower of Pisa (six scoops of gelatto icecream). I will have to get a photo of that from my Aunt.

Liberty Harbor RV Park

Last, but not least we took a trip to New York, New York. We stayed in a Liberty Harbor RV park  in Jersey City. It was great! We set our tent trailer up and from where we were sitting we could see the Statue of Liberty. In the morning we just walked a few blocks and caught a train right into New York. The city was amazing. We spent our days pounding the pavement, taking in all the sights and smells (not all good), and spent a bit of time wondering "Where are the restrooms?"

Marc and the girls in Times Square

We were able to get tickets for the 911 Memorial (which was a beautiful tribute), and stumbled into Little Italy for their San Gennaro festival (biggest and longest religious festival in nyc). It was there that Marc became Italian. I never saw a man eat so much. He tried cannolli, sausages, italian ice....he was very happy. As Marc was tasting the foods, Raye, Morgan, and Mary spent their time haggling with a Chinese vendor for pashmina scarves (the Chinaman won).

Marc's favorite...sausage!!!

Little Italy

appealing food in China Town

unappealing alligator feet....

In New York, we also got to visit with my cousin, Lynsay, and she directed us to two of the girls favorite places...Saks Fifth Avenue shoe department and the infamous Magnolia Bakery (Sex and the City) where everyone enjoyed a $3.50 cupcake.

Now we are back in Maryland downsizing again. We left our tent trailer at Jim's and I just listed it on Craigslist last night. That was my third home in the last year to say "goodbye" to. We had an amazingsummer traveling across the states. Saw so much and experienced so much. Too much to actually write about, but I don't regret it at all (except that we miss our dogs). Now I am weeding through the remains of our belongings and trying to figure out how to get Rayelynn's 88 key digital piano that we drug around all summer down to Uruguay without getting stolen!